Recently, I visited
the African-Print exhibit at UCLA’s Fowler Museum. Its displays focused on the
evolution of African textiles, patterns, and dress making. As I traveled
chronologically through the history of African textiles, I noticed how
important technology was in influencing African-print production and pattern
design.
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One of my favorite displays from the exhibit: Coat and Skirt by Gilles Toure |
To begin with, the onset of industrialization and increased demand forced Vlisco to design a
machine that would churn out wax prints using resin. The resin was printed onto the cloth in the desired design, then later chemically removed so that only fitted pigments remained in the fabric. This chemical removal of resin left cracks and irregular bubbles in the design. These flaws were seen in West Africa as the perfect imperfection, heavily influencing what future African patterns would focus on - individuality. This method of creating art through chemical reactions was not addressed too much in lectures, so it simply reminded me of what I learned about the Third Culture and industrialization.
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A step by step process of creating wax prints w/ resin |
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Textile machine stretching fabric |
However, too much influence from technology was also
detrimental in the eyes of most African-Print designers. Artist Ilunga, for
example, painted Mangbetu figures draped in African-print cloth. The figures
had circuit boards as skin, symbolizing the strain between African-Print’s deep
cultural traditions and modernity erasing its meaning. These circuit boards are
found in nearly all consumer electronics today, from robotics/virtual reality to
math/computers, perhaps referencing today’s more vapid, materialistic society.
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Artist Eddy Ilunga's Oubliez le passe et vous perdez les deux yeux; Circuit board skin |
Thus, although technology heavily influenced African-print art,
it may not be a positive one. Advances in technology are often glorified and
hyped, but sometimes we may need to take a step back; it all depends on
perspective. Overall, I would recommend this exhibit, especially if you enjoy fashion. The dresses on display were immensely colorful and unique, a profound change from all the fast-fashion we see today.
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Workers were not allowed to be in the picture, but they offered to take a picture of me |
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Fowler museum backpack badge/proof of attendance |
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